Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Creating a Dish

     Bleary eyed, I stroll into the cold dark kitchen. The quiet unnerves me. The only sound is the low hiss of the refrigerator compressor. Memories still lurk in my mind about table 6 and their charred, hard as charcoal steak that was returned because it was "not well done enough!!" First order of business, turn on the coffee machine. While the black liquid "gold" brews, I light the pilots on the stove and ovens and turn on the menacing ventilation hood. The sound deafening at first like a jet engine. Then, it settles into a constant throbbing hum. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee waffes across the kitchen signaling that it is time for the morning jump start. Cup of coffee in hand, where to start?
     A great meal starts in the market. Every chef learns this before he dices a single onion or carrot. Every day what looks good or appeals to the senses varies. Was there a frost in Purcellville, did it rain in Leesburg, are they in a dry spell in southern Pennsylvania?  The fate of natural products hangs on nature's whim. Alain Ducasse, one the world's greatest chefs, mantra of what defines good cuisine is "60% ingredients, 40% technique." It is true. Without great products, we cannot have great recipes, without great recipes, we cannot have a great menu. Thus, a menu starts with great ingredients. 
      Ideas are born at the markets. Ingredients speak for themselves in some nonverbal language. Marketgoers and chefs alike pick, prod, smell, squeeze, taste before they buy. A rolodex of taste memories helps us choose what is best. Green beans don't look so "hot" today, how's the asparagus? Beef tenderloin looking a little small today, but look at that leg of lamb! Change as you will, let the market inspire you!

Menu for the Week:
American red snapper in green curry broth  (meat)
Escarole, ham and potato soup  (meat)
Citrus cured Atlantic salmon  (meat)
Caramelized onion marmalade  (vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free)
Limited quantities:
Medjool date and blue cheese tart  (vegetarian)
Creamed savoy cabbage with smoked salmon  (meat)
Braised red cabbage with apples and honey  (vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free)
Hearts of escarole with blue cheese and walnuts  (vegetarian, gluten-free)
Grilled radicchio with aged red wine vinegar and pine nuts  (vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free)   
 

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